冰肌玉骨擬冰島

如果要我選茶中康帝，那非冰島莫屬。

這兒說的不是北歐的的冰島，而是中國雲南普洱縣的一條古村，名曰冰島。

繼班樟熱潮後，冰島成為飲家爭相搶購的精品茶。因為她的特殊微型氣侯和地理位置，兼收勐庫東半山和西半山的特色；可謂集勐庫各區優點於一身。最可貴是這一區還沒有受到商業污染，天然種植，也沒有過度收成，冰島茶保持天然純真，十分可喜。

冰島猶如黑品諾，身段輕盈婉約，香氣如早春百花，底蘊棗香馥郁，冰糖韻宛如蜜糖，餘韻繚繞直達胸腔，茶氣豐厚而王道，別看她纖巧如飛燕；三泡指縫冒汗。堪稱絲絨手套裡的鐵拳頭。

冰島有五個寨，由北至南分別是：南逼、老寨、壩歪、地界、糯伍。五村距離很近，風格大同小異。一如勃艮第、波爾多、和巴羅洛的發燒友，就是為了細味他們每條小村的些微差別的微型氣候；不惜解囊。

南逼口感棉柔、回甘快、高甜、果膠濃，珍藏潛力高。壩歪茶如其名，氣香皆霸、口感剛勁；最容易辨別是他有一股鮮甜豆漿的香氣。地界結構工整，茶氣持久厚醇，我會比喻為Latour 的平衡、Graud Larose 的豐腴。糯伍高香，餘韻綿長，口感細膩鮮活。

老寨就如康帝中的康帝，除了價錢很接近以外，它包含了其他四地的優點，而且更細膩精緻，真的有後宮佳麗無顏色、三千寵愛在一身的感覺；用冰肌肉骨來形容一點兒也不誇張。讓我想起當年芳華正茂的利智。

老天對我真的好，讓我這個孫秀才窮風流餓快活。前輩的關照，可以集冰島三寨的壩歪、地界、老寨以克己的價錢與茶迷共享，其中包括老寨的中老樹和最老樹。

今次有幸中環唐人館的廚長張嘉裕為我們精心炮製菜單，不能辜負極品茗茶。

冰島已列入我的水桶單中。近日驚聞有牆國高層折遷冰島的新聞；茶圈都很擔心美麗的冰島會成絕唱。如果想一嚐茶中康帝的至純至美，勿錯過我們的茶聚唷！

日期： 2021 年7月3日
時間： 5:30pm
地點： 中環置地廣場唐人館
費用：每位HKD 3288+10%
茶單：壩歪混株2020散茶/地界單株2020/老寨中高古樹2018青餅/老寨最高古樹2018青餅
菜單：

The Beauty of Iceland 

If you ask me to suggest a DRC of tea, I shall tell you that it must be Iceland Puer without a second’s thought.

Here we are talking about an old village in Puer, Yunnan, not the one in Northern Europe.

“Iceland “Puer is the most sought-after dark tea because of its unique micro climate and terroir. Not to mentioned the unpolluted natural environment, original grown arbor, never commercially grown, nor over harvested which account for its purity and high quality.

“Iceland “is very much like Pinot Noir for its elegant body, scent of spring flowers, with heart note of plumes and dates and honey notes. It lingers a long time at your sternum, the tea “Qi” is generous and majestic. The colour looks pale and weak, it is so powerful that you will sweat between fingers after drinking 3 infusions. It is because it accelerates your micro circulation. It is very much like an iron fist in a velvet glove.

There are 5 Crus in “Iceland”. From the North to the South, they are: Nanbi, Laozhai, Bawai, Boundary and Nuowu.
These five Crus are so close to each and other and share similarities of high-altitude ancient arbor tea. Their fans are like those of Bordeaux, Burgundies and Barolos, to appreciate the micro differences of each cru, they are very happy to spend a fortune.

Nanbi is soft and gentle, with sweet after taste emerges quickly, very rich pectin and good cellar potential. Bawai is robust and masculine, very powerful kick with a distinctive sweetness of soya milk. Boundary is of very good structure, “Qi” lasts long and rich. I will describe it as the balance of Latour and the roundness and suppleness of Graud Larose. Nuowu is very fragrance, after taste is very long with a very vibrant, fresh and delicate mouth feel.

Laozhai is like the DRC of DRC, not only because of the similar price, but also it contains all good characteristic of the rest but more sophisticated and delicate. You may come across many big beauties, but seldom with the perfect skin white as ivory and soft as silk and smells good . Laozhai gives you such impression.

I am so fortune to have a small collection of Bawai, Boundary and Laozhai to share with my tea buddies at a friendly price. It includes the medium and the tallest ancient arbor of Laozhai.

We take pride to have the renowned star chef Mr Menex Cheung to design the menu for us to pair with the tea.

“Iceland “Puer is on my bucket list. It was shocking news to all tea circle that very senior influentials are resettling the original villages. We are so concerned that “Iceland “would become a Swan Song.

To experience the purest of the puer Puer, do not miss our tea dinner at the China Tang

Date: 3 July 2021
Time: 5:30 PM
Venue: China Tang at the Landmark Central
Cost: HKD 3288+10% per person
Tea List: Bawai Cuvee 2020 Loose Tea/Boundary Single Arbor 2020 Loose Tea/ Laozhai Medium Tall 2018 Pressed Green Cake/ Laozhai Tallest Arbor 2018 Pressed Green Cake.
Menu: Please see above.