不時不賣的羅拔安普
為什麼波爾多的紅酒總比勃根地紅酒更能討好初學者?除了價錢比較昂貴、產區分散、村名難記以外,最頭疼的是她們的釀製風格走傳統路線;大部分的列級村和頂級村的酒都需要陳好些年才夠成熟,入門者嚐嫩齡酒,那肯定不討好。
幸虧好些酒莊保持不時不賣的良好風俗,即是酒陳不夠就不灌瓶出窖。
這個良好風俗在義大利比較常見,但也有好些老實的勃根地酒莊仍然會這樣做。羅拔安普就是其中之一。
他們家擁有10個列級村葡萄園。老莊主羅拔2004年過身,現在是兒子馬素做當家。一批遠年酒剛出窖,直接原莊運港。都是老莊主的手筆。遺憾的是這一批不見有正在等待升級為特級村的旗艦標「繆索巴黎」。但卻有他的普依夢夏山被譽為本村的活教材,充分演繹當區的地土風格。他們的紅也不容忽視, 全都具備30年的窖藏潛力,不容錯過!
No Readiness No Sale - Domaine Robert Ampeau
Why Bordeaux is always more appealing to wine beginners than Burgundy? Besides the expensive price, scattered subregions, difficulties of remembering the pronunciation of villages, the most panicking part is that most of them are of traditional style. Hence it takes a long time for those Premier and Grand Crus to be mature. When beginners try young bottle age burgundy, the first impression will not be very good.
Fortunately, some producers keep a very good custom of No Readiness No Sale; Which means that wine will not be sold when they are not ready.
This very good custom is commonplace in Italy, yet there are some humble and down to the earth Burgundy producers keep it as well. Robert Ampeau is one of them.
They own 10 Premier Crus. Old chief Robert passed away in 2004 and now it is his son Michel taking charge. A batch of back vintages have just been released direct ex-domaine. All of them are made by late Robert. Sorry that the flagship label Meursault Perrieres is not found on the list. It is considered as a candidate to be promoted as the Grand Cru. Their Puligny Montrachet Combette is regarded as a textbook example of the purity and precision of the appellation. The reds should not be over seen cause all of them have a cellar potential of 30 years.
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